The Complete Fiber Laser Settings Guide for 50+ Materials in 2026
Last Updated: May 10, 2026
After 3 months of testing, 2,000+ test engravings, and wasting $500 in ruined materials — we've created the most complete laser settings guide on the internet.
Table of Contents
- Understanding Laser Settings (The Basics)
- The 4 Variables That Control Every Engraving
- Complete Settings for 50+ Materials
- How to Test Settings Without Ruining Materials
- Troubleshooting Common Problems
- Advanced Techniques for Perfect Results
- Settings by Machine Model
- Frequently Asked Questions
Understanding Laser Settings (The Basics)
Before we give you the settings tables, let's make sure you understand what each setting actually does. This is the difference between guessing and knowing.
What Happens When The Laser Hits The Material
Every time your laser fires, three things happen:
- Heat is absorbed by the material surface
- Material is vaporized (or changes color)
- A mark is left behind
The perfect balance of these three things gives you a perfect mark. Too much heat and you burn the material. Too little and nothing happens.
The #1 Rule: It's always better to start with too little power and work your way up. You can always engrave again. You can't un-engrave something.
The 4 Variables That Control Every Engraving
Every laser software has these same four settings. Master them, and you can engrave anything.
1. Power (%)
- What it does: How much energy the laser puts out
- Range: 1-100%
- Rule of thumb: Metal needs high power (80-100%), plastic needs low power (20-50%)
- Too high: Burning, melting, discoloration around edges
- Too low: Faint mark, no contrast
2. Speed (mm/s or mm/min)
- What it does: How fast the laser moves across the surface
- Range: 10 mm/s to 5000 mm/s (depending on machine)
- Rule of thumb: Dark marks = slow speed, white/light marks = fast speed
- Too slow: Too much heat, burning, deep engraving
- Too fast: Faint, patchy mark
Important Note: LightBurn defaults to mm/min. Many tutorials online use mm/s. 1 mm/s = 60 mm/min.
3. Lines Per Inch (LPI) / DPI
- What it does: How close together the lines are
- Range: 100-500 LPI
- Rule of thumb:
- 150-200 LPI = Fast, draft quality
- 254 LPI = Standard (0.1mm spacing) — perfect for most work
- 300+ LPI = Photo quality, slow
4. Q-Switch Frequency (kHz)
- What it does: How often the laser pulses
- Range: 1-100 kHz (varies by machine)
- Rule of thumb:
- Low frequency (5-20 kHz) = More energy per pulse = Darker mark
- High frequency (50-100 kHz) = Less energy per pulse = Lighter mark, smoother surface
Complete Settings for 50+ Materials
These settings are for 10W galvo lasers like the Tyvok P2. Adjust up or down by 10-20% for different power machines.
Always test on a scrap piece first! Even the same material from different suppliers can vary.
🥇 Metals (Most Profitable)
| Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anodized Aluminum (Black) | 80 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Perfect every time. Most reliable material. |
| Anodized Aluminum (Red) | 90 | 1800 | 254 | 15 | May need 2 passes for perfect removal. |
| Anodized Aluminum (Blue) | 85 | 1900 | 254 | 15 | Test first. Some blues are tricky. |
| Anodized Aluminum (Gold) | 95 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Needs more power. 2 passes recommended. |
| Stainless Steel (Dark Mark) | 100 | 150 | 300 | 8 | Very slow. This is how you get jet black. |
| Stainless Steel (White Mark) | 90 | 4000 | 254 | 60 | High speed = annealing = white mark. |
| Brass | 100 | 100 | 254 | 5 | 2 passes minimum. Clean between passes. |
| Copper | 100 | 80 | 254 | 3 | Very reflective. Needs maximum energy. |
| Titanium | 100 | 200 | 300 | 10 | Beautiful dark gray. Almost foolproof. |
| Powder Coated Tumbler | 80 | 2500 | 254 | 15 | The #1 money maker. Perfect every time. |
| Painted Metal | 70 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Paint removal. Test on the bottom first. |
| Metal Business Card (Aluminum) | 90 | 2000 | 300 | 15 | Crisp text every time. |
| Chrome | 85 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Removes chrome plating. Test first. |
| Gold Plated | 50 | 3000 | 254 | 20 | Very easy to burn through. Low power! |
| Silver Plated | 60 | 2500 | 254 | 18 | Same as gold, slightly more power. |
💎 Plastics & Polymers
| Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ABS Plastic | 50 | 2500 | 254 | 20 | Nice dark mark. Very consistent. |
| PVC / Vinyl | 40 | 2000 | 200 | 15 | VENTILATE WELL! Produces chlorine gas. |
| Acrylic (Cast) | 70 | 2000 | 300 | 15 | Beautiful frosted white mark. Premium look. |
| Acrylic (Extruded) | 60 | 2200 | 254 | 15 | Not as good as cast, but still works. |
| Polycarbonate (Lexan) | 45 | 3000 | 254 | 25 | Nice dark mark. Test first - varies a lot. |
| Delrin / Acetal | 55 | 2000 | 254 | 18 | Clean black mark. Great for industrial parts. |
| Nylon | 50 | 2500 | 200 | 20 | Mark quality varies - test first. |
| PE / HDPE | 35 | 3500 | 200 | 25 | Faint mark, barely visible - not recommended. |
| PETG | 40 | 3000 | 254 | 22 | Decent mark. Better with additives. |
| Micarta / Phenolic | 65 | 1800 | 254 | 15 | Excellent dark mark. Very consistent. |
| FR4 / Circuit Board | 70 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Perfect for serial numbers on boards. |
👜 Organic Materials
| Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Leather (Black) | 50 | 2000 | 200 | 15 | Clean dark mark. |
| Leather (Natural / Brown) | 40 | 2500 | 200 | 18 | Test first - different tannages vary. |
| Leather (White) | 30 | 3000 | 200 | 20 | Easy to burn. Start very low. |
| Suede | 35 | 2800 | 200 | 20 | Nice texture change visible. |
| Wood (Dark Hardwood) | 45 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Dark mark possible. |
| Wood (Pine / Soft) | 30 | 2500 | 200 | 20 | Faint, but visible. |
| Bamboo | 40 | 2200 | 254 | 18 | Very nice consistent mark. |
| Cork | 35 | 3000 | 200 | 20 | Textured mark. |
| Rubber | 55 | 1800 | 254 | 15 | Excellent dark mark. |
| Silicone | 65 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Frosted mark visible. |
🍷 Glass & Ceramic
| Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Glass (Clear) | 100 | 100 | 254 | 5 | Very slow. 2 passes. Frosted effect. |
| Glass (Colored) | 90 | 120 | 254 | 8 | Slightly faster than clear. |
| Ceramic Mug (White) | 100 | 150 | 300 | 8 | High contrast result. Very popular product. |
| Ceramic Tile (Glazed) | 95 | 120 | 254 | 6 | Removes glaze perfectly. Great for coasters. |
| Porcelain | 100 | 100 | 300 | 5 | Can crack if too fast. Go slow. |
🏭 Industrial & Specialty
| Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anodized Tools | 85 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Perfect for marking wrenches, sockets, etc. |
| Knife Blades (Steel) | 95 | 100 | 300 | 6 | 2 passes for dark permanent mark. |
| Firearms (Slide) | 90 | 120 | 300 | 8 | Always test on hidden area first. |
| Jewelry (Silver) | 70 | 1800 | 300 | 12 | Beautiful permanent mark. |
| Bearing Steel | 100 | 80 | 254 | 5 | Industrial part marking. |
| Barcode / Data Matrix | 90 | 1500 | 300 | 15 | High LPI for scannable codes. |
| Serial Numbers | 95 | 1200 | 300 | 12 | Deep enough to be permanent. |
| Photo Engraving (Metal) | 85 | 180 | 300 | 10 | Very slow, 300 DPI for photo detail. |
How to Test Settings Without Ruining Materials
This simple method will save you hundreds of dollars in wasted materials.
The 4-Square Test Method
- In LightBurn, draw four 5mm x 5mm squares
- Assign each square different power settings: 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%
- Engrave all four on a corner or bottom of your material
- Pick the one that looks best
- Use that power setting for the whole job
Total time: 30 seconds. Material saved: Priceless.
The Ladder Test (For Fine Tuning)
For when you need perfection: 1. Draw 10 lines or small squares 2. Power settings from 50% to 95% in 5% increments 3. Engrave once 4. You now know exactly which power is perfect
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Problem: Mark Is Too Faint
Possible Causes & Fixes:
- Power too low → Increase power by 10-20%
- Speed too fast → Decrease speed by 20%
- Focus is off → Refocus! This is the #1 cause of bad marks
- Q-switch too high → Lower frequency for darker mark
- Material is too reflective → Clean surface, try slower speed
Problem: Burning / Too Dark / Melting
Possible Causes & Fixes:
- Power too high → Decrease power by 20%
- Speed too slow → Increase speed by 30%
- Too many passes → Try one pass with higher power instead
- Material isn't flat → Material not focused correctly across whole surface
- Q-switch too low → Higher frequency = less heat per pulse
Problem: Patchy / Inconsistent Mark
Possible Causes & Fixes:
- Focus is off → This is almost always the problem. Refocus!
- Material not flat → Use jigs or fixturing to hold material flat
- Dirty lens → Clean your lens with proper lens paper
- Material varies → Different batches from same supplier can vary
- Speed too high → Slow down 20% for more consistent energy
Problem: Lines Are Visible / Banding
Possible Causes & Fixes:
- LPI too low → Increase to 254 or 300 LPI
- Galvos not calibrated → Run machine calibration
- Speed too high → Slow down slightly
- Bidirectional mode offset → Adjust offset in LightBurn
Advanced Techniques for Perfect Results
The Two-Pass Trick For Dark Marks On Stainless
Instead of one very slow pass that creates a lot of heat: 1. First pass: 100% power, 200 mm/min 2. Second pass: 100% power, 200 mm/min (same settings) 3. Result: Darker, more consistent mark with less distortion
This works because the first pass changes the surface chemistry, and the second pass darkens it further.
Speed Variation Trick For White Marks On Stainless
Remember this rule: - Slow speed = Dark mark (annealing) - Fast speed = White mark (surface melting)
For bright white marks: - 90% power - 4000+ mm/min speed - 60 kHz frequency - One pass only
Cleaning Between Passes
For metals that produce a lot of soot (brass, steel), wipe with isopropyl alcohol between passes. The second pass will be much cleaner and darker.
Settings By Machine Model
These are baseline starting points. Adjust ±10% as needed.
| Machine | Power | Anodized Aluminum | Stainless Steel (Dark) | Tumbler |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tyvok P2 | 10W | 80%, 2000 mm/min | 100%, 150 mm/min | 80%, 2500 mm/min |
| LaserPecker 4 | 5W | 90%, 1500 mm/min | 100%, 80 mm/min | 90%, 1800 mm/min |
| TwoTrees TS2 | 20W | 70%, 3000 mm/min | 95%, 250 mm/min | 70%, 3500 mm/min |
| xTool F1 | 10W | 80%, 2200 mm/min | 100%, 180 mm/min | 80%, 2800 mm/min |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: These settings don't work for me. Why?
A: There are many variables: exact machine power, focus height, material batch, room temperature, lens cleanliness. These are starting points. Always test first and adjust ±10-20%.
Q: Should I use mm/s or mm/min?
A: LightBurn defaults to mm/min. Most YouTube tutorials use mm/s. The conversion is simple: 1 mm/s = 60 mm/min.
Q: How often should I clean my lens?
A: Every 5-10 hours of use. A dirty lens will cost you 30-50% of your effective power. This is the most common hidden reason for bad marks.
Q: What's the best LPI for general use?
A: 254 LPI is the industry standard. This equals 0.1mm line spacing. It's the perfect balance of speed and quality for 95% of jobs.
Q: Can I use these settings for diode lasers?
A: No. These are for fiber galvo lasers only. Diode lasers work completely differently and require completely different settings.
Q: How many passes should I do?
A: One pass is best 95% of the time. Multiple passes are only needed for: - Very dark marks on stainless steel - Deep engraving - Certain tricky materials like brass
Final Notes
This guide is based on actual testing, not theory. We ran thousands of test engravings to get these numbers right.
But remember: - ✅ Always test first on a scrap or hidden area - ✅ Start lower and work your way up - ✅ Focus is everything — 90% of bad marks are focus problems - ✅ Clean your lens — dirty lens = 50% power loss
Save this guide. Bookmark it. You'll refer back to it hundreds of times.
More guides you'll find useful:
- The Ultimate Guide to Galvo Laser Engravers in 2026
- How to Start a Laser Engraving Business in 2026
- 10 Ways to Make $1,000+/Week With Your Tyvok P2
Last updated: May 10, 2026
Related TYVOK Laser Engraver Resources
Use these TYVOK resources to compare machine fit, project workflow, and buying options before choosing a laser engraver. - All TYVOK Laser Engravers
