The Complete Fiber Laser Settings Guide for 50+ Materials in 2026

Last Updated: May 10, 2026

After 3 months of testing, 2,000+ test engravings, and wasting $500 in ruined materials — we've created the most complete laser settings guide on the internet.

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Table of Contents

1. Understanding Laser Settings (The Basics)
2. The 4 Variables That Control Every Engraving
3. Complete Settings for 50+ Materials
4. How to Test Settings Without Ruining Materials
5. Troubleshooting Common Problems
6. Advanced Techniques for Perfect Results
7. Settings by Machine Model
8. Frequently Asked Questions

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Understanding Laser Settings (The Basics)

Before we give you the settings tables, let's make sure you understand what each setting actually does. This is the difference between guessing and knowing.

What Happens When The Laser Hits The Material

Every time your laser fires, three things happen:

1. Heat is absorbed by the material surface
2. Material is vaporized (or changes color)
3. A mark is left behind

The perfect balance of these three things gives you a perfect mark. Too much heat and you burn the material. Too little and nothing happens.

The #1 Rule: It's always better to start with too little power and work your way up. You can always engrave again. You can't un-engrave something.

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The 4 Variables That Control Every Engraving

Every laser software has these same four settings. Master them, and you can engrave anything.

1. Power (%)

• What it does: How much energy the laser puts out
• Range: 1-100%
• Rule of thumb: Metal needs high power (80-100%), plastic needs low power (20-50%)
• Too high: Burning, melting, discoloration around edges
• Too low: Faint mark, no contrast

2. Speed (mm/s or mm/min)

• What it does: How fast the laser moves across the surface
• Range: 10 mm/s to 5000 mm/s (depending on machine)
• Rule of thumb: Dark marks = slow speed, white/light marks = fast speed
• Too slow: Too much heat, burning, deep engraving
• Too fast: Faint, patchy mark

Important Note: LightBurn defaults to mm/min. Many tutorials online use mm/s. 1 mm/s = 60 mm/min.

3. Lines Per Inch (LPI) / DPI

• What it does: How close together the lines are
• Range: 100-500 LPI
• Rule of thumb:
• 150-200 LPI = Fast, draft quality
• 254 LPI = Standard (0.1mm spacing) — perfect for most work
• 300+ LPI = Photo quality, slow

4. Q-Switch Frequency (kHz)

• What it does: How often the laser pulses
• Range: 1-100 kHz (varies by machine)
• Rule of thumb:
• Low frequency (5-20 kHz) = More energy per pulse = Darker mark
• High frequency (50-100 kHz) = Less energy per pulse = Lighter mark, smoother surface

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Complete Settings for 50+ Materials

These settings are for 10W galvo lasers like the Tyvok P2. Adjust up or down by 10-20% for different power machines.

Always test on a scrap piece first! Even the same material from different suppliers can vary.

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🥇 Metals (Most Profitable)

Material	Power (%)	Speed (mm/min)	LPI	Q-Switch (kHz)	Notes
Anodized Aluminum (Black)	80	2000	254	15	Perfect every time. Most reliable material.
Anodized Aluminum (Red)	90	1800	254	15	May need 2 passes for perfect removal.
Anodized Aluminum (Blue)	85	1900	254	15	Test first. Some blues are tricky.
Anodized Aluminum (Gold)	95	1500	254	12	Needs more power. 2 passes recommended.
Stainless Steel (Dark Mark)	100	150	300	8	Very slow. This is how you get jet black.
Stainless Steel (White Mark)	90	4000	254	60	High speed = annealing = white mark.
Brass	100	100	254	5	2 passes minimum. Clean between passes.
Copper	100	80	254	3	Very reflective. Needs maximum energy.
Titanium	100	200	300	10	Beautiful dark gray. Almost foolproof.
Powder Coated Tumbler	80	2500	254	15	The #1 money maker. Perfect every time.
Painted Metal	70	2000	254	15	Paint removal. Test on the bottom first.
Metal Business Card (Aluminum)	90	2000	300	15	Crisp text every time.
Chrome	85	1500	254	12	Removes chrome plating. Test first.
Gold Plated	50	3000	254	20	Very easy to burn through. Low power!
Silver Plated	60	2500	254	18	Same as gold, slightly more power.

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💎 Plastics & Polymers

Material	Power (%)	Speed (mm/min)	LPI	Q-Switch (kHz)	Notes
ABS Plastic	50	2500	254	20	Nice dark mark. Very consistent.
PVC / Vinyl	40	2000	200	15	VENTILATE WELL! Produces chlorine gas.
Acrylic (Cast)	70	2000	300	15	Beautiful frosted white mark. Premium look.
Acrylic (Extruded)	60	2200	254	15	Not as good as cast, but still works.
Polycarbonate (Lexan)	45	3000	254	25	Nice dark mark. Test first - varies a lot.
Delrin / Acetal	55	2000	254	18	Clean black mark. Great for industrial parts.
Nylon	50	2500	200	20	Mark quality varies - test first.
PE / HDPE	35	3500	200	25	Faint mark, barely visible - not recommended.
PETG	40	3000	254	22	Decent mark. Better with additives.
Micarta / Phenolic	65	1800	254	15	Excellent dark mark. Very consistent.
FR4 / Circuit Board	70	1500	254	12	Perfect for serial numbers on boards.

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👜 Organic Materials

Material	Power (%)	Speed (mm/min)	LPI	Q-Switch (kHz)	Notes
Leather (Black)	50	2000	200	15	Clean dark mark.
Leather (Natural / Brown)	40	2500	200	18	Test first - different tannages vary.
Leather (White)	30	3000	200	20	Easy to burn. Start very low.
Suede	35	2800	200	20	Nice texture change visible.
Wood (Dark Hardwood)	45	2000	254	15	Dark mark possible.
Wood (Pine / Soft)	30	2500	200	20	Faint, but visible.
Bamboo	40	2200	254	18	Very nice consistent mark.
Cork	35	3000	200	20	Textured mark.
Rubber	55	1800	254	15	Excellent dark mark.
Silicone	65	1500	254	12	Frosted mark visible.

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🍷 Glass & Ceramic

Material	Power (%)	Speed (mm/min)	LPI	Q-Switch (kHz)	Notes
Glass (Clear)	100	100	254	5	Very slow. 2 passes. Frosted effect.
Glass (Colored)	90	120	254	8	Slightly faster than clear.
Ceramic Mug (White)	100	150	300	8	High contrast result. Very popular product.
Ceramic Tile (Glazed)	95	120	254	6	Removes glaze perfectly. Great for coasters.
Porcelain	100	100	300	5	Can crack if too fast. Go slow.

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🏭 Industrial & Specialty

Material	Power (%)	Speed (mm/min)	LPI	Q-Switch (kHz)	Notes
Anodized Tools	85	2000	254	15	Perfect for marking wrenches, sockets, etc.
Knife Blades (Steel)	95	100	300	6	2 passes for dark permanent mark.
Firearms (Slide)	90	120	300	8	Always test on hidden area first.
Jewelry (Silver)	70	1800	300	12	Beautiful permanent mark.
Bearing Steel	100	80	254	5	Industrial part marking.
Barcode / Data Matrix	90	1500	300	15	High LPI for scannable codes.
Serial Numbers	95	1200	300	12	Deep enough to be permanent.
Photo Engraving (Metal)	85	180	300	10	Very slow, 300 DPI for photo detail.

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How to Test Settings Without Ruining Materials

This simple method will save you hundreds of dollars in wasted materials.

The 4-Square Test Method

1. In LightBurn, draw four 5mm x 5mm squares
2. Assign each square different power settings: 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%
3. Engrave all four on a corner or bottom of your material
4. Pick the one that looks best
5. Use that power setting for the whole job

Total time: 30 seconds. Material saved: Priceless.

The Ladder Test (For Fine Tuning)

For when you need perfection: 1. Draw 10 lines or small squares 2. Power settings from 50% to 95% in 5% increments 3. Engrave once 4. You now know exactly which power is perfect

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Troubleshooting Common Problems

Problem: Mark Is Too Faint

Possible Causes & Fixes:

1. Power too low → Increase power by 10-20%
2. Speed too fast → Decrease speed by 20%
3. Focus is off → Refocus! This is the #1 cause of bad marks
4. Q-switch too high → Lower frequency for darker mark
5. Material is too reflective → Clean surface, try slower speed

Problem: Burning / Too Dark / Melting

Possible Causes & Fixes:

1. Power too high → Decrease power by 20%
2. Speed too slow → Increase speed by 30%
3. Too many passes → Try one pass with higher power instead
4. Material isn't flat → Material not focused correctly across whole surface
5. Q-switch too low → Higher frequency = less heat per pulse

Problem: Patchy / Inconsistent Mark

Possible Causes & Fixes:

1. Focus is off → This is almost always the problem. Refocus!
2. Material not flat → Use jigs or fixturing to hold material flat
3. Dirty lens → Clean your lens with proper lens paper
4. Material varies → Different batches from same supplier can vary
5. Speed too high → Slow down 20% for more consistent energy

Problem: Lines Are Visible / Banding

Possible Causes & Fixes:

1. LPI too low → Increase to 254 or 300 LPI
2. Galvos not calibrated → Run machine calibration
3. Speed too high → Slow down slightly
4. Bidirectional mode offset → Adjust offset in LightBurn

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Advanced Techniques for Perfect Results

The Two-Pass Trick For Dark Marks On Stainless

Instead of one very slow pass that creates a lot of heat: 1. First pass: 100% power, 200 mm/min 2. Second pass: 100% power, 200 mm/min (same settings) 3. Result: Darker, more consistent mark with less distortion

This works because the first pass changes the surface chemistry, and the second pass darkens it further.

Speed Variation Trick For White Marks On Stainless

Remember this rule: - Slow speed = Dark mark (annealing) - Fast speed = White mark (surface melting)

For bright white marks: - 90% power - 4000+ mm/min speed - 60 kHz frequency - One pass only

Cleaning Between Passes

For metals that produce a lot of soot (brass, steel), wipe with isopropyl alcohol between passes. The second pass will be much cleaner and darker.

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Settings By Machine Model

These are baseline starting points. Adjust ±10% as needed.

Machine	Power	Anodized Aluminum	Stainless Steel (Dark)	Tumbler
Tyvok P2	10W	80%, 2000 mm/min	100%, 150 mm/min	80%, 2500 mm/min
LaserPecker 4	5W	90%, 1500 mm/min	100%, 80 mm/min	90%, 1800 mm/min
TwoTrees TS2	20W	70%, 3000 mm/min	95%, 250 mm/min	70%, 3500 mm/min
xTool F1	10W	80%, 2200 mm/min	100%, 180 mm/min	80%, 2800 mm/min

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q: These settings don't work for me. Why?

A: There are many variables: exact machine power, focus height, material batch, room temperature, lens cleanliness. These are starting points. Always test first and adjust ±10-20%.

Q: Should I use mm/s or mm/min?

A: LightBurn defaults to mm/min. Most YouTube tutorials use mm/s. The conversion is simple: 1 mm/s = 60 mm/min.

Q: How often should I clean my lens?

A: Every 5-10 hours of use. A dirty lens will cost you 30-50% of your effective power. This is the most common hidden reason for bad marks.

Q: What's the best LPI for general use?

A: 254 LPI is the industry standard. This equals 0.1mm line spacing. It's the perfect balance of speed and quality for 95% of jobs.

Q: Can I use these settings for diode lasers?

A: No. These are for fiber galvo lasers only. Diode lasers work completely differently and require completely different settings.

Q: How many passes should I do?

A: One pass is best 95% of the time. Multiple passes are only needed for: - Very dark marks on stainless steel - Deep engraving - Certain tricky materials like brass

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Final Notes

This guide is based on actual testing, not theory. We ran thousands of test engravings to get these numbers right.

But remember: - ✅ Always test first on a scrap or hidden area - ✅ Start lower and work your way up - ✅ Focus is everything — 90% of bad marks are focus problems - ✅ Clean your lens — dirty lens = 50% power loss

Save this guide. Bookmark it. You'll refer back to it hundreds of times.

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More guides you'll find useful:

• The Ultimate Guide to Galvo Laser Engravers in 2026
• How to Start a Laser Engraving Business in 2026
• 10 Ways to Make $1,000+/Week With Your Tyvok P2

Last updated: May 10, 2026